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Outcomes - Seminar 1
Comments received in response to Seminar 1 held on 9th December 2005

Lucy Gundry

I believe it is crucial that the discourse between these roles is explored – for the purpose of greater understanding and communication between the makers, artists, curators, writers etc, which can only strengthen the identity, purpose and provide a productive future for textiles. I do believe that cross-cultural and cross-discipline partnerships are also crucial for inspiration and development in both educational systems and in professional practice not only to broaden our horizons but the profile of textiles in society Nationally and Internationally.

We need to reintroduce textiles to society - everyone can relate to elements whichever language we communicate in, as artist, maker, writer, speaker, curator. We are all passionate about the same subject and that needs to be communicated, in which ever language we choose, as we all speak the language of textiles.

I also think the cerebral profile of textiles can be raised through the written word in publications such as Selvedge, which in itself is another form of textile.

However, I think seminars and workshops Nationwide are critical at this point for textiles, (even if it is a seminar on writing as an artist). They will provide the opportunities to bring people together face to face (unlike a publication which we all read, but individually) and there is nothing more powerful than the spoken word or the act of making itself as a form of communication to reinforce real issues in the textile world.

Lucy Gundry

Caroline

Just on my way and only just found this so rather late with this. I find it interesting that on the Publicity for Collect this year there is not a single piece of Textiles. I wonder what this reflects?

Best wishes
Caroline

Ruth Singer

Thank you for hosting the seminar which was an interesting day. I have a few points that I had hoped to raise, but didn't fit into the discussions that occurred. I'm not sure how far these fit in with your current work, but I thought I would let you know anyway, to see if they are of use.

I was interested in Sue's comments about the somewhat uncomfortable interface between high profile fashion and its poor relation, textiles. That issue is something I tried to address within the V&A education programme (I was adult education officer until 6 months ago, and still lecture and teach freelance for them) and started trying to do with the interpretation of the redisplayed fashion gallery (which was in the end done on minimal budget). I get the impression that textiles people are very uncomfortable with the fashion people and think its something we ought to address. My academic and creative work crosses both, and can't be the only one. I know from my work with audiences that it is a rather arbitrary division that they don't follow (along with many necessary curatorial divisions).

My other point was a small one, but having organised many textile / fashion events at the V&A I suffered the constant problem of communicating this to interested audiences, particularly at short notice, too late for print deadlines. Selvedge has filled the communication gap to some extent, but does not have event listings or the rapid response. Something I always intended to do at the V&A but never had time was to set up an email group for notification of events. Now I am freelance, I have finally done it. I hope that before too long this will be a huge network of interested people and will enable museums and institutions small and large to reach their

target audiences. It can be found here: http://groups.google.com/group/TextilesandFashion. I had hoped to mention this at the seminar. if there is any mailing that would go to the seminar audience it would be great to let them know. I think communication between textile people is one of the most wonderful things about working in the field and really wish to enable greater access and communication between all those involved and interested.

Very best wishes
Ruth Singer

Matthew

Thanks for organising the Seminar on Friday. I found it interesting and inspiring. The exhibition was fantastic, magical and sensual, a rare thing these days; the memory of that space will stay with me for a long time. I'm not sure that I am able to contribute much to this funding application though I did leave with one over whelming feeling, and that was that we as practitioners are incredibly privileged to be part of a language that stretches far back into human history and hopefully reaches far into the future. It is a language that is almost egalitarian in the way in which it connects with so many peoples understanding and experiences. To continue to make work that uses this language and in some way find a means to communicate it's uniqueness in words is a challenge I hope we can all meet.

Thanks again for a stimulating day.
Best wishes
Matthew

Olga Norris

Thoughts on the needs of the textiles world, and the possible benefits

The term ‘textiles’ covers such a large, diverse, and interesting group of activities – perhaps too large, too diverse, and thus off-putting. For example, when looking down a list of textiles exhibitions one really takes potluck between art, commercial products, history, or hobby work unless one knows the maker(s) or the title is explanatory. I think that each category suffers in consequence.

On the other hand the diversity is in itself interesting and should not be lost. It should be more possible to move from one grouping to another, or to cover more than one area at a time.

I believe that all textile work suffers from a lack of clarity, so that each individual struggle has to be repeated rather than built on. I found that the route and direction Reiko Sudo has taken and is taking could act as an example for what we could do about and for textiles in this country. She has taken in both traditional practices in textiles and industrial innovation across a wide range of disciplines, and using clarity of vision alongside a lateral problem-solving approach is producing outstanding work for which she seeks and persuades appropriate users. She also initiates and pursues a kind of critical discourse in the publications Nuno produces. A depth and breadth of information for input, a fluid approach to design and making, and a growing knowledge of end use is what we all need for the textile world.

When Moira Stevenson spoke about the wealth of material and information around the Manchester area alone, I was really excited about what resources there must be in the whole country. And in this day of online databases what a treasure that could be for textile development.

With a clarity within textiles, it would be easier to work sideways with other disciplines at similar levels. Appropriate textile art could be included with the ‘fine’ arts of mixed media and sculpture without necessarily being a separate category added on. Excellent design in production textiles could be celebrated with industrial design without being a poor relation, or always having to cling onto fashion to find any serious credibility. The professionalism of designing work, with serious internal and external critique which discriminates levels of quality in work to an art-buying public would help build up confidence in non-maker collectors, so that perhaps more textiles would appear in serious gallery outlets, and Collect.

I think we need
• a defining – an explanation of the areas that constitute textiles,
• a database of information, and a network of exchanges,
• encouragement by institutions, galleries, artists and makers to explore, learn, and constantly strive to improve, with use of exhibitions, publications, and
• critical discourse within and outside areas of practice, which brings about
• a clarity of discrimination (in a positive rather than in any pejorative sense),
• to confer appropriate value, so that textiles are not lumped together as the bottom of any art or design consideration. If the textiles elements of industrial design (such as the fine metal fibres that Nuno used in their blow-torched fabric) are pointed out in a defining of textiles, they along with fashion and other such high-profile areas can raise the profile of artistic practice (especially if this last is discriminated clearly from the hobby practitioners by ‘fine’ critical discourse), and then the individual elements of textiles can slot into the broader categories of art and technology.

And all of this needs good publicity that works for everyone: more visibility for the institutions and galleries and of course the practitioners. The theory is that textiles will be seen to be such a vibrant, diverse, technologically, artistically, and financially important area that money should start circulating to warm up the at present blue fingertips of art and craft practice!

Olga Norris

Melanie Miller

I was attempting to address one of the questions that arose from ‘Ambiguous Spaces 1’: ‘Is textiles a language that crosses cultures?’ I was making the point that the inherent tactile appeal of cloth is something that is universal, utilising the example of my eight year old son’s reaction to a collection of fabrics. I relayed how I had taken home a portfolio of student work, the portfolio consisted of a range of embroidered samples. My eight year old son wanted to look at the work. As he ‘looked’ he could not keep his hands off the fabrics. He stroked them, he felt them, he handled them. I repeatedly asked him not to touch, he repeatedly replied, ‘I’m only looking’. He simply could not look without touching.

I related this back to Michael Brennand Wood’s assertion at the Harrogate conference a couple of weeks ago, when he described his process of making as ‘thinking with his hands’. It is thus apparent that textiles practice involves thinking with the hands, making with the hands, looking with the hands. The creative process and the making process are inextricably linked.

I related this back to my concerns over the lack of understanding of the primacy of process within several levels of education, from primary school to higher education. The development of ideas is advanced through practice. Without an understanding of the making processes in textiles it is not possible to be creative. In theory a design can be created on a computer screen, and then produced by computerised machinery, but without an understanding of the construction process innovation is unlikely to happen. Learning through making is crucial for the development of our subject area.

Melanie Miller

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Seminar 1 - related articles
Outcomes
View abstracts, notes and related papers:
Contact
For any further information please contact the Project Director Lesley Millar on lmillar@ucreative.ac.uk
Or the Project Co-ordinator June Hill on jhill@ucreative.ac.uk
Originated through:
University College for the Creative Arts
Supported by:

Arts and Humanities Research Council